The highlands east of the Baliem Valley are much more rugged than those to the west. Trekking here is much harder, but very rewarding. There are no regular flights here, though missionary airstrips do exist. The most popular destination in this region is Angguruk, centre of the Yali, who are one of the most traditional highland groups. Angguruk’s teeming markets are an unforgetable sight – even though like everywhere in Papua, the percentage of traditionally-dressed people has dropped sharply, from about 95% during my first visit in late 1999 to about 5-10% by early 2008.